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...About Treasure of Tuscany & Cycling Tuscany
EVENTS in Volterra
ASTILUDIO
on the First Sunday of September
The historical group Sbandieratori
and Balestieri has reenstated the medieval art of flag throwing and archery
, once a tradition of the city of Volterra in 1406, as historical documents
attest.
The group was established in 1978 and has since been called to exhibit
thier skills in Italy and abroad receiving applauded recognition for the
elegance of their costumes, the skill of the flagthrowers and talent of
the musicians. In 1981 the group became a part of the Italian Federation
of Flag Throwers and in the same year the first edition of the Astiludio
, a spectacular tournament in medieval costume between other historical
groups from different parts of Italy took place in the evocative setting
of the Piazza dei Priori. The Astiludio is now an annual event that takes
place once a year on the first Sunday of September. The
choreograghy and the games have been inspired by actual historical events
that took place in Volterra during the Middle Ages and the Rennaissance
and the 15th century costumes have been meticulously reproduced using
the original colours of the contrade of Medieval Volterra.
The Alabaster craft
The epheremal landscape enhances
the mystery, isolation and romantic melancholy that pervades this unique,
artistic haven, set in the heart of Tuscany.
Volterra is a city of stone.Its narrow streets,looming towers,and majestic
palaces and fortifications are made of stone.
A yellow-grey stone, a sandstone effused with fossils of rare beauty.
Alabaster is also a stone and so is the craft.
The name “alabaster” is undoubtedly Egyptian and probably
derives from the city of Alabastron which was famous for the manufacture
of vases and amphorae made as perfume containers.
There are two varieties of alabaster: the oriental alabaster ( calcium
carbonate) and the chalky alabaster ( hydrated calcium sulphate).
This chalky alabaster, carved in Volterra and mostly mined in Castellina
Marittima was formed during the Miocene period as the sediments of calcium
sulphate contained in the sea water underwent a process of concentration.
A soft white stone, alabaster is more easily carved than marble and thus
ideal for intricate decoration and classical sculpture work.
Once the stone of the gods, the Etruscans were the first to carve alabaster
for their cinerary urns.These beautifully sculptured urns portraying the
recumbant deceased and scenes of everyday life , fantasic journeys to
the world beyond and well-known episodes from Greek mythology are housed
in the Guarnacci Museum in Volterra, the Archeological Museum in Florence,
in the Vatican Museum, the Louvre and the British Museum.
The Etruscans chose the highest quality pure alabaster which they painted
with minerals and sometimes decorated with a very thin layer of gold.
Very few artefacts from the Medieval and Renaissance periods have been
found which suggests that alabaster was seldom carved during that era.
The alabaster craft was reestablished in the 17th century and flourished
at the beginning of the 18th century as skilled artisans and sculptors
launched the reproduction of classical art and high quality artefacts
renowned throughout the world.
In 1780 the Grand duchy of Tuscany registered 8 or 9 artisan workshops
in Volterra. In 1830 the number had risen to more than 60 thanks to the
innovative spirit of the “travelling crafstsmen” who travelled
the world selling their wares, opening shops, taking part in fairs and
auctions.
A noble Volterran, Marcello Inghirami Fei, a talented artist and craftsman
was the first to extract alabaster from the mine in Castellina. He created
new machinery, exclusively produced high quality artefacts and created
a prestigious school-workshop where more than a hundred students under
the guidance of skilled masters had the privelage of learning the art
of the alabaster craft.
Hence until 1870 the alabaster craft flourished and harvested an excellent
repute in Italy and abroad.
Yet despite long intervals of regression, the alabaster industry has continued
to conserve the age-old tradition of the craft. Alabaster may no longer
be the main source of the economy but it is still a distinctive feature
of the culture and history.
Today,there are but a few alabaster workshops in the historical centre
but those which remain have been entrusted with the preservation of this
ancient tradition and the creative evolution of the craft.
EVENTS in San Gimignano
Organized by the
Councillor for cultural affairs, held in summer in Piazza del Duomo, offers
classical music concerts, traditional and theatre.
Medieval
carnival of San Gimignano
“A
Journey into Fantasy”
Organized by the Carnival
Committee, held in February in the main squares and streets of the town.
"Ferie
delle messi"
Historical re-evocation in
the streets and squares of the town, with medieval stands, parades in
costume and a knightly tournament called "Giostra dei Bastoni".
Held on the third Saturday and Sunday
in June
Organized by the
association"Cavalieri
di Santa Fina" (lovers of horses and history)
"Accademia
dei Leggieri"
Ancient theatrical
association founded in the 16th century organizes classical music concerts
all summer long.
Castelvecchio
Historical group
Cultural association
whose objective is that of safeguarding the enviroment and cultural heritage.
Every year in August it organizes, with the sponsorship of the Bureau
of Cultural Affairs, summer camps for the restoration of "Castelvecchio"
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
History
The vines of the wellknown VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO, have been mentioned
for centuries throughout various official and scientific documents, literature
etc. Its well merited fame derives from its quality and appraisable characteristics.
It seems as if the vines of the VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO were first
introduced into the region of San Gimignano by a certain Vieri De'Bardi
around the year 1200. It was later on, that his ancestors Zanobi and Angiolo
Bardi developed the cultivation of the vines that were destined to become
famously appreciated.
It is certain that in the year 1276 VERNACCIA di San Gimignano's trade
was ,flourishing. Infact, we find in the official documents "Ordinamenti
della Gabella " dated 1276, that a duty tax of "3 coins " was established
for each sum of VERNACCIA sent outside San Gimignano's jurisdiction. We
also find a registration of superintendents, for the finer VERNACCIA wines.
They were employed by the city district to control the wine trade.
Therefore, it is quite evident that, already in this period, VERNACCIA
has acquired notable prestige throughout the Tuscan and Italian market
place. It also gladden the tables of the noble and rich. Dante Alighieri
himself, while wondering among the gluttons of his Purgatory happens upon
Foreste Dona- ti. He indicates to Dante an old man (Pope Martino In who
is paying the price for having stuffed himsef with eels alla VERNACCIA...
" Questi e, mostrò col dito, è Bonagiunta. Bonagiunta da Lucca: e quella
faccia di là da lui più che l'altra trapunta ebbe la Santa Chiesa e le
sue braccia: dal Torso fù, e purga per digiuno I 'anguille di BoIsena
e la VERNACCIA '' (Purg. XXIV 19-24)
VERNACCIA, hence, the wine that tempted Popes, the wine of great gentlemen,
whose fame has travelled throughout the most famous marketplaces. VERNACCIA,
the wine that gladden the magnificent feasts of Renaissance princes. Infact,
in 1468, it was VERNACCIA wine that gleamed in the goblets at the Medici
Rucellai wedding. Forty flasks were given as a wedding gift by the city
of San Gimignano. It was VERNACCIA, on the table of Lawrence De Medici,
the "Magnificent " who continually solicited the city of San Gimignano
for donations, excusing himself by saying "... it was a pleasing drink
to his mother Lucrezia Tornabuoni and a useful and strenghtening remedy
to the health of his young son Piero ... " ; the San Gimignano people,
therefore could not neglect sending generous grits of VERNACCIA for Christmas,
Easter and special holidays to the Medici family, especially for Lucrezia
and Piero, and in order to send always good quality wines, in 1477 they
named two official VERNACCIA winetasters, because: ".... ne provvedessero
del migliore et ben condizionato .... " (From the historical archives
ofsan Gimignano, Lib. Provv n. 136, 177)
It was in the Medice house that Pope Leone X become familiar with VERNACCIA.
Once he returned to Rome, he could not remain without this wine and therefore
had it sent to him. Ludovico il Moro, 1487 ordered 200 flasks for the
wedding reception of his nephew Gian Galeazzo with Isabella, the daughter
of Alfonso II, king of Naples. Due to the grand success of VERNACCIA at
this gala affair, he wrote to the city ofsan Gimignano asking for 500
vines to plant in Lombardia. Immediately following his request was another
request by Duke Guidobaldo from Urbino who wanted to produce VERNACCIA
in his area. The attempt was a failure! The hopes of the two princes were
in vain, as the vines grew but did not produce a quality VERNACCIA. The
non-success was due to the fact the value ofthe VERNACCIA wine was strictly
connected to the earth and environmental conditions of where it was produced,
San Gimignano and nerby hillsides. This resulted also in the raising of
prices of cultivating VERNACCIA soil during the Renaissiance period.
Even Wicenzo COPPI in his "Annali di San Gimignano " (1695 p. 141) defines
VERNACCIA as "... a delicate white wine among one of the best and most
pleasing wines cultivated in Italy ... " Really we are able to conclude
that VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO is a wine which boasts a name and tradition
for centuries, so much so that it can be considered the oldest Italian
wines holding the denomination DOC, and VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO was
also the first Italian wine to have received recognition DOC in the year
1966.
Besides with the decree of 9 July 1993 n. 169, VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO,
has entered into the category of the finer Italian prestigious wines carrying
the title of D. O. C. G. (De- nominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita).
Vernaccia
In 1966, VERNACCIA was the first Italian wine to receive the Denominazione
di Origine Controllata, a prestigious recognition given to the wine by
the Italian government for quality. The wine, one of Italy's highest quality
white wines, is produced exclusively in the territory of the Medieval
town of San Gimignano (SI) a major tourist attraction known through out
the world. The medium altitude of the vines is approximately 280 meters
and the earth is pliocene, made up of jellow sand and sandy clay.
The vines are grown in part Gujot and in part rammed cord, with a density
of about 3000 stocks per hectare. The time in which the grape harvest
takes place is roughly from September 15 to October 15, with a yield of
90 quintals of grapes per hectare. The wine-making process in "white "
follows the traditional style with a gentle pressing and low temperature
in order to keep its exceptional fragrance. The fermentation, at a controlled
temperature, has a medium duration of 12 to 18 days in either cement or
steel vats.
These are the characteristics for VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO:
COLOR: yellow straw-like hue, tending towards a golden color with age;
SCENT: fight and penetrating;
TASTE: dry, with a slightly bitter after taste;
SUGAR: max. residue 4 %o;
TOTAL ACIDITY: min. 5 %o;
DRY EXTRACT: net min. 15 %o;
ALCOHOLIC GRADE: min. 11%. For the "Riserva " 11, 50%;
Some producers, destinate a part of their choosen vineyards (to report
to the CCIAA) to the making of VERNACCIA "RISERVA ".
With the decree of 9 July 1993 n. 169 signed by the minister of the agriculture
On. Diana, VERNACCIA di SAN GIMIGNANO has entered into the category of
the finer Italian prestigious wines carrying the title of D. O. C. G.
(De- nominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita).
VERNACCIA of 'SAN GIMIGNANO is an excellent aperitif, it is also excellent
with hor d'eouvres, it is an exquisite accompaniment with all fish dishes
and is highly suitable, for white meat courses. To be served cool at a
temperature of 11 -12° C.
EVENTS in Colle Val d'Elsa
The "Royal Christal Roch" Christal production has its seat in Colle Vald'Elsa. All Christal lovers, can find here a wide range of items in the several shops spread out in the city.
In September along the old city streets christal work demostrations, workshops, exhibitions and market in occasion of the Big Christal Show.
EVENTS in Monteriggioni
EVENTS PROGRAMM 2002!!
EVENTS in Siena
Il Palio
The Palio is a horse
race held twice a year July 2
in honor of the local Madonna of
Provenzano and August 16 in honor of the Assumption of the Virgin.
But to call the Palio just another horse race is akin to calling Everest
just another mountain. The Palio is blood and histeria. It is long-standing
rivalry and medieval pageant.Depending on who you listen to, it is "the
world's wackiest horse race" or "the world's crookedest horse race." However,
one describes it, there is no doubt that it is the heart and soul of Siena,
for the Palio lasts one minute, but this minute is the culmination of
a whole year's hopes and preparations.
The backbone of Il Palio are Siena's 17 contrade, which you can liken to city wards or administrative districts. These well-defined neighborhoods were designated in the Middle Ages, basically to aid the many military companies hired to defend Siena's fiercely-earned independence from Florence and other nearby city states. Over the centuries, the contrada has lost its administrative function and become an area held together by its residents' common emotions and devotions. Its role has broadened, so that every important event - baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories, even wine or food festivals - was celebrated by, and only by, the contrada. Even today it is not considered a good idea to marry out of the contrada, and if you do, it's probably wise to sleep at your parents' house the night before the race.
(Horses Race Around the Piazza) ---------------(50 Foot Long Tables) ----------------(Il Bruco's Paggio Maggiore)
Naturally, this loyalty extends to the yearly horse race whose "official" motivation since the 11th century has been to give thanks to the Madonna. The horses that tear around the Piazza del Campo at breakneck speed, with or without jockeys on board, wear the colors and designs of the contrade: Tortoise, Wave, She-Wolf, Goose, Shell, Porcupine, Dragon, Owl, Snail, Panther, Eagle, Caterpillar, Unicorn, Ram, Giraffe, Forest and Tower.
The culminating moment of Il Palio, the actual horse race, is achingly brief: a minute and a half, give or take ten seconds. But so much has happened before the pack of frantic animals finally breaks loose from the ancient rope that marks the starting line!
Anyone familiar with Siena knows that Il Bruco is the smallest and least affluent contrada. Most of its residents are working class people, and it has none of the imposing banks, resplendent churches or opulent municipal buildings present almost everywhere else. It's also off the beaten track, tucked just inside the walls on the Chianti side of town where the Gothic church of San Francesco stands. It hasn't won a Palio since 1956, one of the longest "dry spells" in Sienese history. It speaks volumes about the personalities of the brucolani that they turn this singular stretch of bad luck into a "record" to point to with a kind of perverse pride. They will also make sure you know their neighborhood is one of only three to have received the official designation of contrada nobile. Ironically, the honorary title of "noble" was bestowed in the late 14th century, in recognition of Bruco's leadership and heroic participation in a successful uprising against the local nobility.
Be sure to visit some of the museo della contrada. There are seventeen of these "museums" in Siena, each crammed with mementoes, drawings, paintings, photographs, sacred art objects, locks of horse mane, military uniforms, tiny sets of jockey silks and, most importantly, every single banner (or palio) won by the contrada since they started handing them out. The oldest extent one, dated 1719, is on view at the museum of L'Aquila, The Eagle. Il Bruco has about as few as any, but it boasts a lovely fresco depicting the historic noble uprising.
If you ever attend the Palio you'll never forget the excitement of the night before the race. The streets are bathed with soft golden light from hundreds of torches and lanterns. Groups of noisy Geese, Panthers and Tortoises flock by on their way to dinner for thousands: each contrada lays out rows and rows of 50-foot-long tables in its largest square, and local restauranteurs serve up huge bowls of pasta, gigantic platters of meat and legendary sides of vegetables. Approximately 25,000 Sienese will eat in the streets that night - so close and yet so far away from each other.
People will treat you like native Contrada. They will sit you down in the middle of a table and proceed to shout history at you as you munch on your fettuccine. It is a very special kind of history, the history of Il Palio. Everyone has a family anecdote, everyone has their own peculiar version of the facts, and with each ruby red pitcher of Chianti, the "discussion" gets more "animated." You will learn more about the workings of Il Palio than you probably know about the entire Roman Empire.
In 1969, the Goose won this palio honoring the moon landing ("Il Cencio"Won By The Goose In 1969 first left).
The first thing to understand about this race is that there is a very delicate equilibrium between the 17 contrade. They don't all hate each other. Bruco, for instance, has a historical alliance with Snail, Porcupine, Unicorn, Shell and Tower and, rather uniquely (another source of great pride), it has no official enemies. On race day, this patchwork quilt of friends and foes translates to last-minute deals whispered between jockeys as they wait for the canape, or starting rope, to fall.
Lets not get ahead of ourselves, because the real beginning of Il Palio comes months before the race, when each neighborhood carefully selects its delegates for the coming year. The most illustrious nominee is the Captain, who is actually responsible for managing the contrada's money (more about that later), strategies and welfare in the days leading up to the Palio. Then there's the barbaresco, who takes care of the horse once it's chosen. Other hotly contended nominations are for the comparsa, the pages and costumed characters who represent the neighborhood during the pre-race pageant. The two most important comparsa members are il paggio maggiore, who carries the contrada's official banner, and il duce, who parades in full body armor as he impersonates the military commanders of ancient days. For the next few months all these lucky people will spend every free minute planning, plotting, rehearsing and, in the case of the pages, practicing their flag-tossing skills or (ouch!) their drumming techniques.
April 26th marks the opening of parade season. Throughout the next four months, each contrada stages a colorful procession to celebrate its patron saint. This whirlwind of activity leads up to the day of the tratta when, in the presence of countless nervewracked Sienese citizens, the horses deemed "suitable" for this unique race are assigned by lot to each of the ten contrade participating in the race. Yes, you read correctly. Only ten horses run each race, because seventeen overwrought equines would be too much even for this larger-than-life event. As a result, the Captains retreat twice each year to decide which three lucky contrade get to run in both races. We probably don't need to explain the ramifications of the above friend/foe aspect during these meetings. Fans of Machiavelli will delight to the possibilities!
Once the barbareschi have led their charges off to the neighborhood to be "inspected," spoiled and evaluated by every single citizen, it is up to each Captain to decide, based on the relative worth of the allotted animal, whether the contrada's strategy should be to win or rather to make the enemy lose. This is all done by carefully moving the neighborhood's financial resources in one direction or another. Rich contrade like Goose or Forest may have as much as half a million dollars to throw around. Those like Bruco with no true enemies will gladly accept "donations" in exchange for sabotaging the enemies of their allies. From this moment on, rumors fly across every piazza and strada, so that when the horses finally do run that 90-second dash, true Sienese - the 50,000 standing in the square and the thousands more comfortably seated in bleachers and at every single window in the Piazza - are just as interested in the politics behind the race as in the race itself. Perhaps that is why they don't seem to mind that it always takes three or four attempts to line up the horses at the rope: they know the jockeys are using that "wasted" time to make last-minute offers of assistance and treachery. Lip-readers are in heavy demand on the day of Il Palio.
After the tratta, all life in Siena is focused on the race. Six trial races are held so that the jockeys (race track professionals who receive astronomical sums from the contrade) can get to know their mounts. Locals say the fifth trial is the most dangerous day of all, because spectators can no longer control their emotions. This harrowing day is followed by a "dress rehearsal" dinner, where all the contrada members can practice the celebration they hope to repeat the following night. People spend the evening listening to complicated analyses of equine withers, the going prices for bribes, the duplicity of jockeys and the way in which all of these elements would combine to end Il Bruco's dry spell the next day.
----------(Vai e Torna Vincitore!)-----------------------(The War Chariot)----------------(Then The Rope Falls)
The magnificent animals are brought into the churches. The horse snorts, the altar boys fill the air with clouds of incense, the prelate holds a cross above the animal's head and intones a few words in Latin, the onlookers recite a few verses, the priest says "Vai e torna vincitore "(Go and return a winner), and then it is over and you are pushed back out into the streets amid a feeling of mounting tension as harrowing as you'll ever feel. Everyone rushes across town, ignoring the contrada border line now in their hurry to get to their accustomed section in the middle of the Piazza, as close as possible to the finish line.
The roar of the crowd is unforgettable. Anxious faces are everywhere, except in the baby blue waters of the fountain (that comes later). Many of the thousands standing in the square wear scarves and hats with their contrada colors. Now and then a group of spectators burst into a song which is their neighborhood anthem. Friends will smile; foes will whistle and boo. At around 4:30 they seal off the square and that is it: the only way you can get out of there before the race ends is on a stretcher.
Then follows three hours of medieval pageantry. It includes delegations of carts and floats from nearby towns, the Sienese academicians, the trade corporations, a "charge" by a legion of mounted carabinieri officers, the well-rehearsed pages and drummers of the contrade, first those participating and then those not involved this time around, followed by the city authorities, the noble families and, the favorite, the war chariot, drawn by two enormous doe-eyed white bulls and bearing the Palio, the banner to be awarded for that particular race.
It's a waste of words to describe what happens once the steeds and jockeys arrive on the scene. Utter pandemonium breaks loose. Fans scream, banners wave, whistles blare and cannons are fired as time after time the officials try to line the horses up in the correct order. You keep thinking the mossiere is about to raise his arm to signal the start, but then he nods imperceptibly, the air fills with tens of thousands of groans, and the horses all file out to begin again. You get so used to this rhythm that when the rope finally does fall, you are taken by surprise and have to refocus on the magnificent animals hurtling by at breakneck speed. You must look carefully, because they'll only be back this way once again.
Alas, most people will not receive the miracle they had been hoping for. That bay which had so impressed them in the church turned out to be a brenna (nag) and the jockey? Well, anyone could tell that the jockey was the scum of the earth. People are alternately crestfallen, infuriated, speechless and full of invective, and some of them get into shouting matches with the winners as they hop over the fences to get to the Judges Stands in time to see the Palio being lowered to their Captain. In the wink of an eye they are gone, following their rag to the cathedral to thank God for their victory.
EVENTS in Radda in Chianti
EVENTS in Panzano in Chianti
EVENTS in Firenze
Events Calendar 2002!!!!
Gastronomy
Red wines from Chianti to the Super Tuscany and white ones
from the Vernaccia of S. Gimignano to the Galestro; extravirgin
olive-oil, sheep's cheese from the clay hill area, durum wheat, special
sweetmeats, honey from Montalcino, truffles from San Giovanni
d'Asso and Asciano, charcuterie, finely-tasting meats from the "Chianina"
cattle: all these are the basics of the well-flavoured Sienese food. They
are the most important elements of this cuisine, where the importance
of the spit and grill has been preserved for achieving light, lean and
tasty dishes; with the constant fundamentals of oil, vegetables and good
bread baked without salt, which is at the base of the traditional Sienese
soups.
In short, a cornerstone of the Mediterranean cuisine, making excellent
use of herbs, plus garlic and onion, shallots, leeks and celery. And,
amongst the meats, the use of game, in an authentic relationship between
mankind and nature, with no tendency towards selfish destruction of the
fauna. Amongst the soups the "ribollita" still holds the first
place in winter: a bean soup left to cool and then re-heated with oil
added. In summer "panzanella" triumphs: dry bread soaked in water
and then blended with basil and onion (tomatoes and anchovies too, recently)
and then oil, vinegar and salt.
Amongst the centuries-old dishes are omelettes with bacon cubes, "pici", which are the Sienese version (in the south of the province this is the age-old usage) of spaghetti rolled out by hand and seasoned with meat sauce or garlic, or, in the lack of anything else in the house, with breadcrumbs fried in oil. Amongst the meat dishes, as first course, "pappardelle" with hare, and, as second course, the tradition of meat fried in egg and breadcrumbs, and the "Chianina" steak done on a grill over burning, but flameless charcoal.
Typical, simple dishes which characterize a cuisine completed by sweetmeats such as "Panforte" and "Ricciarelli", whose recipes have been handed down from mediaeval pharmaceutics. Dishes which have, of course, undergone a certain transformation. In the restaurants in Siena and its province nowadays one can find many variations on the theme of the traditional Sienese wines and gastronomy, refined diversifications, but still with the same basic ingredients: the bouquet of herbs, crusty bread, olive oil, typical meats and then the flavour of fully-bodied wines, elegant and graceful just like the hills of their origin.